citrus slice: t-shirt

the inspiration for citrus slice was, as the name suggests, a slice of citrus fruit! the natural structure of the fruit works perfectly with the circular yoke construction of this garment. it is worked from the top down, and it ends at the natural waist for a cropped style. the citrus-like colorwork is created using duplicate stitch.

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notes

materials

• 3 colors of a worsted weight yarn, in the following yardages:
  • MC: approximately 286, 343, 400, 457 (514, 571, 629, 686) [743, 800, 857, 914] yards
  • CC1: approximately 143, 171, 200, 229 (257, 286, 314, 343) [371, 400, 429, 457] yards
  • CC2: approximately 71, 86, 100, 114 (129, 143, 157, 171) [186, 200, 214, 229] yards
• US 8 / 5mm circular and DPNs (or size to obtain gauge)
• darning needle, many stitch markers

gauge

18 stitches and 22 rows in 4” of stockinette

sizes

sizes 1, 2, 3, 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) [9, 10, 11, 12]

to fit chest measurements (in inches) of 27 – 32, 30 – 35, 34 – 39, 37 – 42 (41 – 46, 44 – 49, 48 – 53, 51 – 56) [55 – 59, 58 – 63, 62 – 67, 65 – 70] with 0 – 5” of negative ease

abbreviations

MC – main color
CC1 – contrast color 1
CC2 – contrast color 2
CO – cast on
SM – slip marker
st – stitch
sl – slip
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit two together
m1 – make one (use whichever type of increase you like best)
w&t – wrap and turn

techniques

wrap & turn short rows
duplicate stitch

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pattern

neckline

With CC2, and using circular needles, cast on 72, 75, 78, 81 (84, 87, 90, 93) [96, 99, 102, 105] stitches. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning/end of each round.

For size 1 only:
Rounds 1 – 5: k all the way around

For all other sizes:
Rounds 1 – 3: k all the way around
Round 4:
For size 2 only: k4, (m1, k8) 3 times, (m1, k9) 2 times, (m1, k8) 3 times, m1, k5 | 84 st
For size 3 only: k2, (m1, k5) 3 times, (m1, k4) 11 times, (m1, k5) 3 times, m1, k2 | 96 st
For size 4 only: k1, (m1, k3) 26 times, m1, k2 | 108 st
For size 5 only: k1, (m1, k3) 6 times, (m1, k2) 23 times, (m1, k3) 6 times, m1, k1 | 120 st
For size 6 only: (m1, k2) 21 times, (m1, k1) 2 times, (m1, k2) 21 times, m1, k1 | 132 st
For size 7 only: k1, (m1, k1) 9 times, (m1, k2) 35 times, (m1, k1) 9 times, m1, k1 | 144 st
For size 8 only: (m1, k2) 15 times, (m1, k1) 32 times, (m1, k2) 15 times, m1, k1 | 156 st
For size 9 only: k1, (m1, k1) 24 times, (m1, k2) 23 times, (m1, k1) 24 times, m1, k1 | 168 st
For size 10 only: (m1, k2) 9 times, (m1, k1) 62 times, (m1, k2) 9 times, m1, k1 | 180 st
For size 11 only: k1, (m1, k1) 39 times, (m1, k2) 11 times, (m1, k1) 39 times, m1, k1 | 192 st
For size 12 only: (m1, k2) 3 times, (m1, k1) 92 times, (m1, k2) 3 times, m1, k1 | 204 st
Round 5: k all the way around

For all sizes:
Short Row 1: k 6, 7, 8, 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) [14, 15, 16, 17], w&t
Short Row 2: p 6, 7, 8, 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) [14, 15, 16, 17], SM, p 6, 7, 8, 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) [14, 15, 16, 17], w&t
Short Row 3: k 6, 7, 8, 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) [14, 15, 16, 17], SM, k 12, 14, 16, 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) [28, 30, 32, 34], picking up wrap from previous short row, w&t
Short Row 4: p 12, 14, 16, 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) [28, 30, 32, 34], SM, p 12, 14, 16, 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) [28, 30, 32, 34], picking up wrap from previous short row, w&t
Short Row 5: k 12, 14, 16, 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) [28, 30, 32, 34], SM, k 18, 21, 24, 27 (30, 33, 36, 39) [42, 45, 48, 51], picking up wrap from previous short row, w&t
Short Row 6: p 18, 21, 24, 27 (30, 33, 36, 39) [42, 45, 48, 51], SM, p 18, 21, 24, 27 (30, 33, 36, 39) [42, 45, 48, 51], picking up wrap from previous short row, w&t
Short Row 7: k 18, 21, 24, 27 (30, 33, 36, 39) [42, 45, 48, 51], SM

Round 6: k all the way around, picking up wraps from last short rows

yoke

Switch to CC1.

First Round: k all the way around
Increase Round 1: *k3, m1, repeat from * to end of round | 96, 112, 128, 144 (160, 176, 192, 208) [224, 240, 256, 272] st
Next 5, 6, 7, 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) [13, 14, 15, 16] Rounds: k all the way around
Increase Round 2: *k4, m1, repeat from * to end of round | 120, 140, 160, 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) [280, 300, 320, 340] st
Next 5, 6, 7, 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) [13, 14, 15, 16] Rounds: k all the way around
Increase Round 3: *k5, m1, repeat from * to end of round | 144, 168, 192, 216 (240, 264, 288, 312) [336, 360, 384, 408] st
Next 5, 6, 7, 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) [13, 14, 15, 16] Rounds: k all the way around
Increase Round 4: *k6, m1, repeat from * to end of round | 168, 196, 224, 252 (280, 308, 336, 364) [392, 420, 448, 476] st
Next 5, 6, 7, 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) [13, 14, 15, 16] Rounds: k all the way around

You should end up having worked 25, 29, 33, 37 (41, 45, 49, 53) [57, 61, 65, 69] rounds with CC1. Switch to MC.

Next 3 Rounds: k all the way around

body

Body Set-Up: k 26, 30, 34, 38 (42, 46, 50, 54) [58, 62, 66, 70], sl 32, 38, 44, 50 (56, 62, 68, 74) [80, 86, 92, 98] st onto scrap yarn, CO 8, k 52, 60, 68, 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) [116, 124, 132, 140], sl 32, 38, 44, 50 (56, 62, 68, 74) [80, 86, 92, 98] st onto scrap yarn, CO 8, k 26, 30, 34, 38 (42, 46, 50, 54) [58, 62, 66, 70] | 120, 136, 152, 168 (184, 200, 216, 232) [248, 264, 280, 296] st

Knit until the sweater hits your natural waistline. Work the final 4 rounds as follows:

Round 1: *k2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round | 90, 102, 114, 126 (138, 150, 162, 174) [186, 198, 210, 222] st
Rounds 2 – 4: k all the way around

Bind off loosely.

sleeves

With MC, and using DPNs (or magic loop with circulars), pick up the 32, 38, 44, 50 (56, 62, 68, 74) [80, 86, 92, 98] stitches left on scrap yarn, as well as the 8 underarm stitches.

Rounds 1 – 3: k all the way around | 40, 46, 52, 58 (64, 70, 76, 82) [88, 94, 100, 106] st
Round 4:
For sizes 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11: *k 8, – , 11, – (14, – , 17, – ) [20, – , 23, – ], k2tog, repeat from * to end of round | 36, – , 48, – (60, – , 72, – ) [84, – , 96, – ] st
For sizes 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12: *k – , 10, – , 13 ( – , 16, – , 19) [ – , 22, – , 25], k2tog, k – , 9, – , 12 ( – , 15, – , 18) [ – , 21, – , 24], k2tog, repeat from * to end of round | – , 42, – , 54 ( – , 66, – , 78) [ – , 90, – , 102] st
Rounds 5 – 7: k all the way around

Bind off loosely. Repeat for the second sleeve.

colorwork

Block your knitting before beginning the colorwork section.

Using CC2, begin the duplicate stitches, following these steps (also available in chart form!):

• Starting at the very back of your shirt, work the duplicate stitch over 2 complete rounds, exactly 2 rounds above the bottom of the CC1 section of the yoke.
• Find any column of stitches where you have a clear path from the 2 duplicate stitch rounds you just worked, all the way up to the top of the CC1 section (i.e. you don’t encounter any increases). Place a stitch marker at the base of this column.
• Place a stitch marker on this same round, 28 stitches away from the one you just placed. Repeat this step until you have placed a total of 6, 7, 8, 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) [14, 15, 16, 17] stitch markers.
• Starting from 4 stitches to the left of one stitch marker, work 9 duplicate stitches on the round above, left to right.
• On the round above, starting 2 stitches to the left of where you just left off, work 5 duplicate stitches, right to left.
• On the round above, starting 1 stitch to the right of where you just left off, work 3 duplicate stitches, left to right.
• On the round above, work 3 duplicate stitches from right to left, directly above the 3 you just worked.
• On the round above, work 3 duplicate stitches from left to right, directly above the 3 you just worked.
• On the round above, starting 1 stitch to the left of where you just left off, work 1 duplicate stitch.
• Continue working 1 duplicate stitch directly above the previous one, until you reach the very top of the CC1 section.
• You will end up with 6, 7, 8, 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) [14, 15, 16, 17] citrus segments! Weave in all ends, and you may find that the shirt requires a second blocking after the duplicate stitches.

chart